Samoa

I was in Samoa for eight days, so I can't report on the Samoan psychology, but I can mention some of my impressions and experiences as a keen observer. Samoa could best be described as proudly traditional rather than underdeveloped. Most Samoans live in modest fales (fah lays), a gazebo-like structure with thatched roof and adjustable thatch "blinds" to block wind, sun, or rain, in small villages. Each village still retains a chief. Church and family are highly regarded - everything is shut down on Sunday and it is common for four generations to live in the same fale. Fishing is carried out in cut-out logs or in six-man teams at low tide with nets and spears. Native fare mainly consists of coconut, papaya, breadfruit, banana, mango, pineapple, rice, chicken, fish, and root vegetables. There is no tourist market versus local market - Samoans get their goods from the same solitary market I roamed. There is very little western culture present - there are a good number of cell phones, but very limited internet and thankfully, there is no apparent interest in what is going on with Hollywood celebrities. Most Samoans had only heard of California, Alaska, and maybe New York. Meaning, I was from New York in their minds. The beachside resort scene has not spoiled Samoa, yet. There is only one massive resort on the main island - the rest of the accomodation is what you see in my pictures. They seem a happy and genuine people. However, the taxi drivers will try to scam you and charge you as much as they can get away with. On the other hand, after having only talked to two seperate women for ten minutes they had given me their contact information for a free place to stay my next visit to Samoa and I don't doubt that I could take them up on their offer. I felt they welcomed tourists' presence as long as it was in moderation - refreshingly, they don't seem eager for our lifestyle - they seem secure and content with their own. Which is probably why they are so willing to talk and share about themselves and their family: they are proud.

Full Circle

There are so many superlatives that can be thrown at the country of New Zealand. Apart from the heavy hearts at the moment, the trip really could not have been any better. I think it is as simple as that. Autumn and I gained so much from all our experiences whether we were herding cattle, collecting seaweed, picking seeds out of a sheep's wool, trudging through thick mud, reverently watching a kiwi pass within feet of us, swimming, talking with Kiwis, Swiss, Israelis, Germans, French etc. at a hut, playing Scrabble with the Stewarts, or reading a book on the beach. This country has such a wealth in its mountains, forests, waterways and people. Our WWOOF hosts welcomed us into their families where we were able to get past the mundane casual conversations and talk about US culture and Kiwi culture, politics, and I even learned heaps about cricket. I can't speak for Autumn, but I'm pretty sure she feels the same: we feel extremely fortunate to have done what we did while in New Zealand and we've made great friends and have memories that will truly be with us for our lifetimes. Here are my top 10 moments of our time in New Zealand:

10. Banks not open. Upon arrival, because of jet lag, we couldn't figure out why the banks were not open at 9:15am when their posted hours were 9:30am. "Why are all the doors locked?" 12/6

9. The New Zealand Robin pecking curiously at Autumn's boot. Kahurangi NP. 1/31

8. Christmas swimming at the Stewart Farm. 12/25

7. Striking water and herding cattle at the Born Farm. 1/22

6. The Northwest Circuit rest day at Hellfire Hut. 2/19-20

5. Waimakariri Hut. 3/25-27

4. Moeraki boulders, day 2. 2/12

3. The view from Cascade Saddle. 3/8

2. Our first kiwi encounter at Long Harry Hut on the Northwest Circuit, Stewart Island. 2/17

1. "...it's all gone to custard." An expression used by Ian Stewart explaining an aspect of cricket. Absolutely hilarious. 12/29

Rotorua

I flew to Rotorua solely to attend a Maori cultural event. I attended a concert of traditional song, dance, and performance with a delicious meal called a hangi (pronounced "hungi"). Hangi style cooking is wrapping food in flax leaves and putting it underground using the thermal steam in this area to cook. It was a good time. The warriors displayed their defiance with wide eyes and outstretched tongues, while the woman performed with the poi (a ball at the end of a rope that they swung around skillfully). After the performance was the meal (see menu). The venison was the best. The last picture is my covert camping adventure in the California Redwood forest in Rotorua. Ask me about that later. I am Auckland bound in an hour for my last night in New Zealand. I have to make one more New Zealand post, however, so watch for that. Until then, cheers!!

Life

Knowing what everyone at home is going through, it is difficult to post an update. Cal was an amazing woman; genuine, caring, refreshing. I believe she would want these stories to keep coming. I am hoping this will help Autumn and others feel a bit closer to me and my support. So, in honor of Cal! You will be missed by many! Breifly: I spent the last eight days on my last tramp in the Southern Alps (I fly to Rotorua tomorrow for my journey back to Auckland). I ended up doing a mightier tramp than expected when straight-away I headed up the wrong river valley. Actually, had I done my intended trip it would have been a bit boring. So I went up the Mingha River, over Mt. Oats to Taruahuna pass to Tarn Col, next up Walker Pass and out the Hawdon Valley, crossed the major road and up the Cass Valley and up Cass Saddle to the Harper River, and finally up to Lagoon Saddle and back to the major road. Then I hitched to Christchurch. The hiking was difficult. I had good weather mostly. I thought for sure I had too much food, but no so. I am off to Govinda's for you, Aut! I love you Autumn, and am sorry I am not there. It makes me very happy that you were there where you are needed probably more than you know.

Pictures (top to bottom):

~ Taruahuna Pass with Tarn Col the second body of water in the distance

~ Eating above Taruahuna Pass

~ The broken land I travelled over

~ Camping at Tarn Col

~ Sunrise facing the direction I had hiked at Tarn Col

~ This is actually the trail

~ Hawdon Valley looking south to Cass

~ A public loo

~ Cass Hut

~ Hamilton Hut

~ Dates and peanut butter, Lagoon Saddle Shelter

~ Bealey Hut (2)

~ April 11th sunrise through the rain

Papatuka

Papatuka, our Toyota Caldina, our friend, is no longer in the Clark-Carlsen family. He has been sold to a Muir from England. I didn't ask if he was related to John, but I hoped he was. I want to share with everyone a wee bit about or reliable wheels and home. Papatuka was born in 1993 and moved to New Zealand in 1998, probably just for a visit - like a lot of folks here - but ended up staying. He was a reliable car and not a bad Harley hybrid. He had travelled quite a distance (260000 km) but everthing worked well - power windows, locks, steering, brakes, and even ac (we used it once). Papa always kept us safe, protecting us and even our belongings from vandals in Kahurangi NP when he refused to open his doors risking great damage to himself. He will be missed. If I had the money, I would have brought him to see the States. But alas, he place is here among the kiwi, kea, and possum. For a non-religious man, I was quite worried to jinx the health of Papa by writing too much about him. So I am able to let it all out now. What a great car! Cheers.